A Trip Along The Black Sea

This month, I look back on 5 years from 2009 to 2014 when I worked for the leading travel specialist in Bulgaria. In particular, I chart a road trip I took along the country’s beautiful Black Sea Coast. My journey took me from the quieter north to the bustling south where I discovered some of the best places to visit and things to do in this underrated yet very popular Eastern European country.

I had for years wanted to work in “the smoke”. Every day I jumped on the train to Victoria Station and then walked down Buckingham Palace Road tipping my cap as I passed Her Majesty. Then on through the parakeet screeching pathways of Green Park, past the obscenely expensive jewellers of Bond Street. I then spent my day just a stone’s throw from Oxford Street where a pair of shoes can cost you more than you would pay for a week’s family summer holiday on the Black Sea Coast of this sometimes misunderstood Eastern European country.

The negative reaction when I told people that I would be selling and promoting holidays to Bulgaria and even today, years after I left, always surprised me. There is a certain snobbery around some destinations and I soon became accustomed to the body language that told me, on the mere mention of the word Bulgaria, that it was not a place that some potential customers would ever consider.

However, rather than let these reactions get me down, they spurred me on. Much like another country close to my heart, yet tarnished with the same stuffy brush – Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bulgaria is an Eastern European country that divides opinion – is it the marmite of world travel? Let’s find out if I can change your perception as I travelled from the North to the South of Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast.

So What Is Bulgaria Like For A Summer Holiday

The abundance of cheap hotels in the most popular seaside resort of Sunny Beach, the drinking culture of the British (not the Bulgarians I hasten to add) and the often-referenced links to the Bulgarian mafia, unfortunately, taint the opinion of many. It seems that one lively resort in July and August where youngsters head for a great time means that the rest of the country is considered off-limits. I guess that is similar to visitors coming to the UK to somewhere like Blackpool – does that then mean that any holiday in the UK is going to be all day drinking, donkey rides and kiss-me-quick hats?

Your Bulgarian Lev will go a very long way and as a result, the country does attract tourists just intent on drinking enough beer and Rakia to sink a battleship but like so many places in the world if you head off the beaten track and away from those commercial traps of excess you will be surprised at the beauty, the quality and the hospitality available.

Bulgaria’s summer holidays are often seen as a cheap alternative to other Mediterranean destinations, making them perfect for families and couples who are on a tight budget.

Family holidays in Bulgaria offer safe bathing on Blue Flag beaches, many sports activities and entertainment plus chilled vibes and places to relax. Families with very young kids tend to love the quieter resorts, leaving the larger resorts to those wanting to party the night away.

During these five years, I learned so much about the country, Bulgaria’s summer and winter resorts and the people.  I hope now with my new blogger’s hat on….no kiss me quick hat here, I can dispel a few myths and showcase some of my memories and experiences whilst also highlighting some of those places and resorts that so often get overlooked!

Potholes and Dreams

I remember my first experience of the country was a whistle-stop Bulgaria road trip of the summer coastal resorts flying into Varna in the North then, travelling from the resort of Albena, 130kms south, before ultimately departing back to the UK from Bourgas.

A friend of mine had and still has an apartment in Varna, bought with loose change over a decade ago, He had always stated that the northern Bulgarian coast was quieter and home to some smaller, relaxed, safe resorts as well as three high-quality golf courses, one of which is world-class.

So there you go, have I surprised you already? Quieter…. smaller….relaxed…safe…world-class – surely these are not words to describe Bulgaria that we all “think” we know?

I always remember that road trip with great fondness as I was driven and guided by a lovely Bulgarian lady who taught me so much about the country, its traditions and her dreams for the future – something I always like to hear from people is their aspirations in life.

Bulgaria’s summer holidays can be scorchingly hot. We travelled south in a car the size of an egg box which was covered in so much sand, both inside and out, that it could have come straight from the Dakar rally. Add to this, a lack of air conditioning and a suspension that had come off worst in many a battle with a Bulgarian pothole, and this was the type of road trip and adventure that I have always relished – for me, travelling is about these random adventures and the occasional hair raising moment.

Varna

Varna itself is an airport hub, a port and a seaside resort and is mainly considered a gateway to the northern resorts of Albena, St Konstantin and Golden Sands not to mention the golf resorts of the Cape Kaliakra region.

The third largest city in Bulgaria, Varna has grown in recent years to offer visitors so much more in terms of shopping, history, art galleries, museums, cultural events, and a promenade with numerous bars, restaurants and nightlife that never sleeps.

I particularly loved the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin, the brightly coloured houses, the wrought iron balconies and the pretty bustling flower market – it is well worth a day trip if you are staying in the area.

Albena

Just 30 km north of Varna is Albena. A purpose-built seaside resort on one of the very best beaches on all of the Black Sea Coast. I recall wandering around observing the open spaces, kids playing safely in the parks, a horse-drawn carriage taking tourists on a gentle tour of the town and the cleanliness of both the beach and the streets.

For some random reason, I always remember a cheap oh so simple kids’ toy kiosk that was a throwback to my youth and a happy old man in a blisteringly hot tent in the shape of an orange selling fresh juices. I think he was drinking more than he was selling!

All quite bizarre but a lovely resort and ideal for great value Bulgaria summer holidays where you will rarely stray from the beach…. I mean why would you when it’s that good?

Golden Sands

Heading south I discovered the principal northern resort of “Golden Sands” which alongside its lush green wooded hillside location gave me that first glimpse of aqua parks, family attractions, neon lights and the party scene.

However, its most famous attribute as the name suggests is the beach which is listed as a Blue Flag Beach meaning it is safe to swim, clean and pollution-free. Golden Sands is blessed with some great beach bars where you can take a sundowner at incredibly low prices. A lovely road train offers visitors the chance to rest their legs while being ferried between key locations.

At night there is a dizzying choice of bars, restaurants with one of my pet hates, pictures of every meal on the menu and clubs featuring the old favourite “karaoke” where you can choose songs from the local Bulgarian hit parade written in Cyrillic or if your not up to that challenge then there are plenty of your more recognisable favourites.

I found Golden Sands a little too commercial and glitzy for me although it does what it says on the tin and caters for families or singles looking for a Bulgaria summer holiday with fun, 24/7 entertainment and beach life all at an amazing price.

Just 30 km from Golden Sands and a very popular excursion are the Botanical Gardens of Balchik. Here you will find rare species of plants, cacti, stalls selling local produce and souvenirs, a small church and even a little beach with refreshments. This was far more to my taste and I wholeheartedly recommend this trip.

St Konstantin and Elena

Just 7 km south of Golden Sands is the peaceful resort of St Konstantin.

There is the most lovely beach here with its small village centre home to a few shops, bars, restaurants and market stalls. Very popular are the numerous mineral springs and treatments available in both the town and its hotels and these draw in visitors looking to be refreshed and revived! Am guessing as a result of a night in Golden Sands or Sunny Beach!

I enjoyed my time here relaxing and unwinding amongst the cypresses, fig trees and lilies that fill the park that surrounds the resort.

St Konstantin is small, affordable and 8 km away from Varna and is a far cry from the hubbub of the other larger resorts.

Cape Kaliakra

If I said that one of the top three courses I have played anywhere in the world was in Bulgaria you would probably think I was joking or I had only played well… three courses in the world. Well actually no!

The region of Cape Kaliakra hosts the Lighthouse, Black Sea Rama and the jewel in the Bulgarian golfing crown, Thracian Cliffs. As a golf destination, Bulgaria continues to attract guests through excellent pricing, the attractive mix of beach and golf and its reputation.

Thracian Cliffs is top class and I can only describe it as if you were playing a round of golf along the white cliffs of Dover… the views are amazing and the golf is immaculate although prepare to lose a few balls over the edge especially if you tend to veer right off the tee!

The staff here at Thracian Cliffs were so lovely. I spent some time talking to the young guys and girls pictured down at the beach and they were so excited to be working at that time for a very new concept in Bulgaria. They shared the owner’s vision to put Bulgaria on the world’s golfing map and within a few years, I learned that Thracian Cliffs had been selected as a venue for a PGA (Professional Golf Association) tournament so as a team they succeeded and I was delighted for them and the country.

A little story while I was staying at the Lighthouse Golf Resort and Spa. I was lying by the pool shown in the picture below and suddenly a lady who was the only other person using the facilities about ten yards from me jumped up as if she had been ejected from a James Bond car. A rather large and slippery snake had taken refuge under her lounger so both I and the chief barman were called into action to capture it and send it on its way which we did. We never saw the poor lady again.

As you move south and take the one-hour drive of 55kms to the resort of Obzor you move into what is considered Bulgaria’s southern resorts and these are normally served by flights into Bourgas or as written in the Bulgarian non-Cyrillic version – Burgas.

Obzor

Once again the star attraction is the 10km long sandy, clean beach, making it ideal for family bathing and activities. There are two parts to this beach the main part and then the quieter south beach.

Several large beachfront hotels are catering for the holidaymaker’s needs but it’s worth noting that Obzor is small, peaceful and part of a community of seven villages centred around Obzor. In the village, there are lots of bistros, local shops and market stalls ideal for discovering during those barmy summer evenings.

If you want an excursion away from Obzor then you could try visiting the local salt pans or the natural mud baths….they will not only improve your skin but also guarantee a fun day out with no doubt a few selfies for your social media followers – just don’t drop your phone as you will never find it!

Elenite

This village is situated in a quiet bay with a huge fine sandy beach offering a great choice of water-based activities.

Accommodation here is generally in hotels or in the beautifully designed villas that are set amongst the bordering green meadows, mountains and hills that run down towards the sea.

Elenite is a fantastic place for a family holiday or couples looking for a more relaxed holiday in the Summer sun.

For many, the beauty of Elenite is that it offers the best of both worlds as the resort is quiet yet you are within reach of the lively Sunny Beach should you get the urge to have what is called these days a “blowout”!

Sveti Vlas

Just 5km north of Sunny Beach resort and 9km from Nessebar the small resort of Sveti Vlas (or St Vlas) is well known for its lovely marina where yacht hire is popular as is just relaxing in the many bars and restaurants that overlook the bobbing boats and lovely beach.

St Vlas is also ideal for those looking to have a peaceful base yet get out and about to explore the surrounding resorts and countryside, the stunning marina, bars, restaurants and luxurious hotels.

Sunny Beach

Now, where do I start!? My first introduction was to pop into the company’s Sunny Beach office and meet the team of experienced and friendly staff managing the resort after which I took a stroll to take in the sights, smells and sounds of the strip! If I have the time I always love to do this as I find it the best way to get to know a place – just walk, stop for a drink, just one for the road of course and observe.

What I soon discovered that afternoon was every street was the same – full of noisy themed bars and clubs all trying to outshine the next, restaurants of every style imaginable, stalls selling beach items and tacky souvenirs, fairground rides for the daring or the paralytic and enough tattoo, body piercing and hair plaiting stations to keep a Premiership football team looking the part and out of mischief for a week…. well maybe not.

The cherry on the Black Sea cake is the beautiful long soft sandy beach which attracts sun worshippers and families in their droves. In some areas testosterone fuelled bare-chested and often sunburnt lads would congregate and look to demonstrate their sporting or drinking prowess as a kind of mating ritual to attract the female who more often than not was more interested in her tan lines, her OK magazine and where the next strawberry daiquiri was coming from.

The highly dependable weather during peak season is so incredibly hot that the premium-priced but still, great value bars and restaurants located on the beach were always busy offering those stylish cool cocktails along with Ibiza-style vibes and comfy seating areas to catch the setting sun. I loved this time of day in Sunny Beach and I enjoyed my time exploring however I kind of knew that this was the calm before the storm.

Why Party in Sunny Beach, Bulgaria?

At night the decibels are ramped up, the neon lights come out to play, and restaurant and bar owners showcase their offerings and try to entice you through the door while the screams from the rollercoaster get louder by the minute. As night turns into morning characters emerge from the shadows and the neon signs of seedier establishments flicker into life while of course, the beat of the club continues along with the body piercing long into the early hours…..

Sunny Beach is one of the most talked about party resorts in Europe but do you know what, it is what it is and for the price, I can guarantee that if you are in your teens or twenties and streetwise you will have the time of your life. If you are a family the children will love it and if you are a middle-aged travel blogger observing life and all its facets, it’s all part of life’s rich tapestry. I just wish I was 18 again!

Excursions from Sunny Beach, Bulgaria?

Probably the most popular excursion just outside of Sunny Beach is to a place called Khans Tent. Here you can enjoy a never-ending meal of cooked meats, salads and vegetables all washed down with copious amounts of alcohol while being entertained by various Bulgarian acts from clowns to plate spinners and dancers to trapeze artists. The location also boasts a great place to view and take a group pic of Sunny Beach from up high on the mountainside. Book ahead as this is a very popular and often riotous night!

Other trips you can enjoy include a sightseeing tour of Nessebar, jeep safaris and fishing or sunset cruises on the Black Sea. Sunny Beach is the signature Bulgaria Summer Holidays Resort – just brace yourself for the ride!

Nessebar Old Town

One place in Bulgaria that is universally loved is Nessebar. A UNESCO-protected town due to the ancient medieval fortress with a famous wooden windmill at the entrance to the area known as the Old Town. I too was captivated by Nessebar and liked its pretty little streets full of revival-style houses, art and crafts stalls, souvenir shops, quaint bars and restaurants and the ancient ruins of St Sophia church. Somewhere I spent many an hour was the central square where you can grab a cooling drink and just people-watch for hours on end. I would also recommend a walk along the peninsula to get a true feel of the town and its location.

Regular buses run from Nessebar to Sunny Beach and in the town itself, there is a fun road train to get you to the main sights. Another quirky excursion is to book the red double-decker bus from your hotel to take you on a tour and down to the harbour where you can pick up a catamaran and head out past the gorgeous statue of St Nicolas out onto the Black Sea. If you are lucky as I was, you may spot wild dolphins as the sun is setting. This is by far the best way to see dolphins in Bulgaria and not via the Dolphinarium in Varna which has a long history of animal welfare problems – avoid it!

There is something quite magical about Nessebar and it’s a place I would go back to in a heartbeat. During the day it’s busy with tourists and visitors but that makes you appreciate the peace and tranquillity at the start of the day with a strong coffee and a pastry and at the end of the day with that refreshing sundowner!

Pomorie

The resort of Pomorie is slightly different to others in that it is famous as a place of healing and rejuvenation as it hosts a variety of mud, clay, salt and water treatments that are almost guaranteed to reinvigorate the body and mind. Quite clearly I have yet to undergo any of these therapies!

Aside from all this healthy stuff, there is the usual array of bars and restaurants and a lovely Blue Flag beach to enhance your stay still further.

There are also several cultural attractions in the small town with museums and entertainment galore.

Sozopol

Without a doubt, this is my favourite Bulgaria summer holiday resort and a bit of an undiscovered gem in my opinion especially the excellent Hotel Selena at the far end of the horseshoe-shaped bay.

Sozopol has for starters a lovely beach which is shallow and calm for swimming due to its shape. Backing the beach is a promenade overlooking the sea and packed with easy-going bars and restaurants offering al fresco dining and great views. Behind the path, there is a road which is also full of stalls with both souvenirs and fast food outlets such as kebabs, ice creams and pancakes.

Then on the other side of this road, there is a lovely fruit and vegetable market and in the late afternoon and early evenings smartly turned out and well looked after horses take visitors from one end of the bay round to the old town on the peninsula with its hilly cobbled streets, revival style wooden houses, pretty shops and a stunning array of restaurants perched above the rocks and overlooking the lovely bay.

Sozopol is a great place to wander and stop as often as you like for a refreshment or a lovely meal. Fresh fish in restaurants is highly recommended as is the famous Shopska Salad which is served everywhere in Bulgaria. This is a salad which is most often a side dish but could if you wish, be the main course of chopped tomato, cucumber, onion and peppers and often with some feta cheese and oil sprinkled on top – the colours represent that of the Bulgarian flag!

Where should I stay in Sozopol?

A little shout out to the 3-star Hotel Selena where I stayed all those years ago and after a quick Google tells me it is unsurprisingly still going strong. A charming little no-frills hotel offering a lovely welcome, a great service, a wonderful continental breakfast on the front terrace amid gardens and a tiny little pool. It’s also the type of hotel you get from time to time that is a bit of a secret yet it sells out very early in the year with repeat guests so get in quick for those peak dates! It always reminded me of the 3-star Hotel La Playa in Alghero, Sardinia – another hidden gem but please – keep that to yourself…

I loved Sozopol, it is not a party town, more for middle to older-aged couples I would say but it’s a place I wanted to mention in my Bulgaria Summer Travel blog as I continue to recommend it to this day!

Duni

Just 7 km from Sozopol and 40km from Burgas Airport is the purpose-built high-quality holiday resort of Duni or Dyuni as it is sometimes spelt.

Duni is, without doubt, a great place to go for your family holiday as it caters for children of all ages in terms of entertainment and activities across a range of different hotels from 4* excellent to 5* luxury. The difference here though is you don’t have the myriad of jumping bars and culture of excess drinking that you do in Sunny Beach during the peak season.

Despite not being someone who enjoys being surrounded by screaming brats… sorry I mean children, I instantly recognised this as a fantastic resort and probably the best Bulgaria summer holiday resort for families. It is safe and has the most magnificent 3 km long Blue Flag beach together with a huge choice of watersports.

Everything is available on-site so you do not need to go anywhere although the lovely Sozopol for a spot of history and a different view from your table is only up the road.

Bulgaria – Give It A Try

So after a short transfer from Duni to Bourgas Airport that was my Bulgaria road trip over – I had survived the potholes and opened my eyes to a country that previously I knew little about.

I experienced a real variety of resorts, I met Bulgarian people who want to welcome you to their country and like anywhere in the world all they ask is that you treat it with respect, I ate wonderful fish, and meat dishes and that healthy Shopska Salad and I had spent time relaxing on the award-winning sandy beaches as good as anywhere in the northern hemisphere.

Over the next few years, I discovered even more about the country – the truly beautiful nature and countryside of the interior, the capital of Sofia where I met the Bulgarian footballing legend Hristo Stoitchkov and was serenaded by the Bulgarian Eurovision entrant from 2008. I played yet more golf and skied the three winter resorts of Pamporovo, Borovets and Bansko….. all of this I will leave for another blog.

So banish those preconceptions and give Bulgaria a chance – yes of course you need to pick the right resort for you and/or your family as Bulgaria is most certainly not a one-size-fits-all destination and it’s certainly not all about Sunny Beach! 

Speak to your friendly travel agent or tour operator and find out more because there are hundreds of thousands of tourists, many repeat guests, heading on their Bulgaria Summer holidays and their view is the same as mine…. it is a sea view!

Contact Information

If you enjoyed my Bulgaria Black Sea Resorts blog then for further information contact your local travel agent, a specialist tour operator or the Bulgaria National Tourist Office.