Introducing Star Clippers
At seventy feet above the sun deck, the morning ascent to the crow’s nest of a Star Clippers tall ship in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea is for those fit young sea pups right? Not a chance! This old sea dog had just climbed the 50 steps of a wobbly rope ladder; my heart was racing, my head was spinning, and my legs were shaking like an MFI wardrobe. Before me was endless blue ocean, below me a spectacular wooden tall ship, and next to me a couple of quivering middle-aged ladies taking selfies.
I was on an adventure straight out of a Boys Own annual and an experience that truly connected me with nature and like-minded people. This was a moment in time that would make me feel young again and, like those famous ocean explorers before me, would make me dream of discovering more of this wonderful world.
I had been invited to experience a week sailing off Italy with the Cruise company Star Clippers who are the proud owners of three magnificent Tall Ships – The Royal Clipper, The Star Clipper and my vessel for the week – the Star Flyer!
Formed in 1989, Star Clippers deliver the most fabulous selection of Tall Ship sailing itineraries. From April to November, they are operating European itineraries whilst during the winter months they are in warmer climes, in the Caribbean, Central America, and Panama. I was taking one of those Spring European sailings in a loop from Civitavecchia, the Port of Rome, to the Aeolian Islands, Sicily and then along the Amalfi Coast and back to Civitavecchia.
This was my first experience of Tall Ship sailing. Would it float my boat?. Lets find out!
The Rail and Sail Add-On
Like many cruise companies these days, Star Clippers offers the option of a pre or post-cruise stay. This allows you to fly to a nearby destination for a few days before continuing your journey— in my case, by train— as part of a “Rail and Sail” package. Choosing a pre-cruise option lets you relax and recover after your flight, so when it’s time to board the ship, you’re refreshed and ready for the adventures ahead.
My Rail and Sail add-on included a two-night stay in Bari, Puglia, followed by a scenic train journey through the stunning Italian countryside to our embarkation port in Civitavecchia, near Rome. You can read more about my stay in Bari in my blog posts featuring the charming Bventuno Hotel, Bari, and the highlights of Puglia and Basilicata.
After a seamless transfer from Bari to Rome, followed by a 30-minute connecting train to the port of Civitavecchia, we took lunch at the lovely La Lisca restaurant. This seafood establishment was on the main promenade and conveniently just a stone’s throw from the railway station and port.
After lunch we hopped onboard a little shuttle bus from Civitavecchia railway station where we got our first glimpse of our Tall Ship, the Star Flyer. Within ten minutes we were disembarking and making our way into a processing area. I know that doesn’t sound very glamorous, but that’s what it was! Within this giant tent we handed over some documents and breezed through the security scanners before climbing the steps to board. My levels of excitement were off the “sailing” charts!
Not All Captains Wear Hats
Tall ships like the Star Flyer have a rich legacy, dating back to the age of sail, when these wonderful vessels were the pride of explorers and traders. Stepping aboard was like stepping into a living history. What struck me first was how small and intimate the ship was. This was a Tall Ship but also a small ship and I loved that! From the moment we stepped on board it had that feeling of a comfy pair of slippers – perhaps that should be Star Clippers Slippers!
Our arrival was the first opportunity to meet some of the seventy five onboard staff from three departments – technical (navigation, security), engine (mechanical, maintenance) and hotel (rooms, restaurant, cleaning, laundry).
You soon come to realise that many of the staff double up on their duties. The beaming smile of the lady that greeted me with a glass of fizz also turned out to be the on-board masseuse. At check in, Kevin, a mere waif of a lad on his first sailing was also in charge of the boutique. The Ships Director, Carlos, was also the on-board compere!
In charge of us all was the portly Captain Dominique who hails from a small town south of Brussels. He has worked for Star Clippers for 25 years so clearly knows his Inner Jib from his Outer Topsail. It was clear he was in charge. He was quite an unassuming character and much to my surprise he was not wearing a hat. Don’t all captains wear hats? Speaking to him later in the trip it turns out that this was all part of the informality of Star Clippers. The more I got to appreciate the ship the more I understood why. This is a cruise…. well, it’s not really… it’s a Tall Ship Adventure, where there is no stuffy grandeur, no showboating and no excessive formality, so why wear a hat!?
Check-In and Cabins
Check in was straight forward. We submitted our passports, registered a credit card, and took possession of our cabin key. Whilst I was keen to explore the ship its worth pointing out that its at this point you should book your shore excursions for the next few days in case they sell out! The details will have been sent to you in your pre trip literature, so be sure to review them carefully in advance. The cost is then added to your bill at the end of your stay.
With check in complete I was taken to my room by Sonny who I should add, doubled up as a singing butler. With his silky combed over black hair and genuine smile he was a daily source of tremendous fun and entertainment.
My room was what is classed as a category 2. Small but perfect for little old me. The ship’s cherry wood interiors evoked a sense of vintage charm, with polished brass fixtures and nautical details. There was a comfy bed, a wardrobe and a convenient space under the bed for your case. The bathroom consisted of a small shower and basin with complimentary toiletries. Adventurers don’t need anything else apart from perhaps a porthole…. and guess what … I had one of those too!
Discovering the Star Flyer
Once your bags are unpacked, and the formalities of a muster drill are completed, it’s essential to familiarise yourself with the layout of the ship by understanding what’s on each of the four decks:
Top Deck (Deck 1): Features two pools and three distinct areas—the Fore Deck, Sun Deck, and Aft Deck.
Main Deck (Deck 2): Includes a few cabins, the Library, the Piano Bar, and the outdoor Tropical Bar.
Clipper Deck (Deck 3): Home to guest cabins and the restaurant.
Commodore Deck (Deck 4): The lowest deck, featuring some cabins and crew quarters.
All four decks are connected by staircases with rails, handy for keeping steady during choppy seas or after indulging in a few too many cocktails in the Tropical Bar on the Main Deck!
The Daily Itinerary
Every day, I looked forward to receiving a newsletter which was slipped under my door. It provided details about where we were, what was on the agenda for the day and also a few fun facts that always brought a smile to my face. Honestly, I could use one of these in my life every day!
On my first day, the newsletter included details about the Sail Away Party scheduled for our first evening. It also revealed the highly anticipated Cocktail of the Day—an announcement I quickly came to look forward to in my new life at sea!
Sail Away Party
Once I had found my bearings, it was time to change into my opening night chinos and head to the Fore Deck for a glass of fizz at the Sail Away Party. Like a proud peacock, the Star Flyer unfurled her sails and gently glided away from the port. There was music, plenty of chatter and many, like me, just pinching ourselves at just how lucky we were to be embarking on such an incredible journey.
That evening, I began meeting some of the 170 passengers on board, 50 of whom were repeat guests. Most guests were aged over forty with nationalities including Americans, Germans, Austrians, Scandinavians, Brits, a couple from Tasmania, plus some love struck honeymooners from Japan.
It quickly became clear that Star Clippers attracts a very different crowd from those who prefer modern cruise ships. These multi-national guests seek a relaxed, authentic sailing experience rather than a Vegas-style extravaganza. While they appreciate great food, friendly service, and comfort, they understand they’re aboard a tall wooden ship, not a towering floating resort. There are no casinos, robotic bartenders, or flashy waterslides—this is an entirely unique and refreshingly understated experience.
What surprised me was how much I enjoyed mixing and speaking to the guests on board. With so many nationalities it could be quite daunting for some to integrate but with everyone there for the same reason it seemed to just work, and I loved that.
The Tropical and Piano Bars
The Tropical Bar serves as the heart of the ship and is the hub for many evening events and shows. One half is located indoors, featuring cosy seating and live piano performances each evening. The other half is outdoors, through some rather high impact swing doors, to a charming wooden deck with fixed bar stools—likely designed for stability during rough seas rather than to counteract one too many cocktails!
On this sailing our resident barman was Mark who soon gets to know you and your favourite drinks. As I acquainted myself with the decks it would have been rude not to sample Just One for The Road (or Ocean) so I could not resist the Star Flyer Cocktail of the Day, a White Rum with Blue Curacao, Coconut Cream and Pineapple Juice….the name was perfect…. the Bon Voyage…I think that was a given!
Restaurant & Dining
Each morning that lovely little newsletter conveniently tells you about the times for the Early Bird Breakfast, Breakfast Buffet, Lunch Buffet, Afternoon Snacks, and Dinner and Late-Night Snacks. Clearly you are not going to go hungry on this ship!
Breakfast comprises all that you could possibly want – there is an egg cooking station, pastries, porridge, fruit, yogurts, cereals plus cold meats. Hot breakfast options included bacon, sausages, potatoes, eggs and more.
The Lunch Buffet, weather permitting, is set up on the outside Tropical Bar deck. Most people choose to fill up a plate and grab a place at the bar or inside at the piano bar although to showcase the informal nature some will just find a little ledge and enjoy lunch sailing on the wind.
At dinner some tables are reserved for groups but if you are alone or in a couple you can park up anywhere. Our waiter each evening was the lovely Marlo who presented an excellent menu where you could choose as many dishes as you like from a variety of meat, fish, pasta options. There were always Vegan alternatives. I really enjoyed the non-stuffy restaurant, the excellent food and the always on point service.
The only semi formal element is dinner where men should wear long trousers but a polo shirt is fine if you don’t want to wear a more formal shirt. As Phil Collins once said “No Jacket Required” but some of the men did. For the women, well you ladies know how to dress – it’s us men you need to worry about!
Mornings On Deck
Now being away on an adventure normally allows you to have the occasional lay in. For me that was never on the cards on this trip! Every day I set my alarm for 5:30am and was up with the sparrows, although there weren’t any sparrows here in the middle of the med! There were however Dolphins and plenty of them!
Dressed in a warm hoodie I took the one minute commute to the Early Bird Breakfast at the Piano Bar. Now don’t get too excited as this is just a coffee, tea and juice station with a little platter of cakes, but do you know what – it’s exactly what you need at that time of the morning. You fill your mug, grab a cake and, negotiate those swing doors before heading up to the Top Deck.
As I hugged my coffee, staring at the towering sails, that creaked in the wind, a reminder of its craftsmanship, I looked out to sea and thanked my lucky stars for this opportunity. It was here, at this ungodly hour, that I truly fell in love with Tall Ship Sailing.
The Top Deck is one of those Health and Safety officers worst nightmares – there are ropes coiled on the floor, cables hanging in the air, there are brass pullies, navigation equipment, beams, and a whole heap of sailing ship paraphernalia to smack you in the head or trip over! But that’s what it’s all about – this is all part of the experience. You just need to be careful!
After an hour each morning I was joined by a gaggle of women in hot pants. Now I was already loving this trip, but this was reaching a whole new level of enjoyment! As it turned out they were meeting for Yoga at 7am at the Aft Deck (at the back of the ship). Could life get any better?
On Board Entertainment & Theme Nights
The theme nights that the crew organise are great fun. Every evening at the Tropical Bar Deck there is something going on and all coordinated by the Brazilian Cruise Director and king of entertainments, Carlos. I have to say I was a little sceptical as to how guests would react to these events, but everyone got stuck in. Dance classes, Italian lessons, a white night, a pirates evening and various musical productions all brought both guests and crew together.
One evening there was a Sports fashion show where some guests were invited to model Star Clippers garments alongside crew. These clothes and accessories are sold in the on-board shop so it’s a subtle attempt to get guests to part with their money – we knew their game and would never fall for this form of subtle advertising. Three days later I bought a lovely Star Clippers jacket!
Mast Climbing
If the weather conditions are favourable, then one of the highlights of any Tall Ship adventure is the opportunity to climb the mast.
Despite my advancing age and those sports injuries of yesteryear I dismissed all the arguments in my head and signed up alongside two fearless ladies in my group. I think their eagerness to take on the challenge was more because at the top of the mast there was former model Sergio, a handsome young Spaniard from Malaga who had caused a stir the night before with the rather flamboyant removal of his belt at the Sports fashion show.
We were meticulously strapped into our harnesses and given clear instructions of how to climb the 40 steps to the top where a little wooden crow’s nest could hold up to six people. It is quite a workout as some of the steps are deep, but you do so in the knowledge that you are safe and secure with the ropes and harnesses preventing any possible fall.
One by one we climbed to the top, some of us tentatively and some confidently. It was such fun and the views of the ship, and the med were fabulous! After catching our breath, young Sergio decided to tell us a story about how he had recently cast a message in a bottle out to sea. The bottle contained a nautical love poem which he then took great delight in reading to us! Now I have been in some odd situations in my life but up a crow’s nest at 100 feet on a tall ship in the middle of the med with a Spanish former model reciting a love poem was a first. Having noticed the ladies’ legs were wobbling and not because of our altitude, it was time to break up this love in and make our way back to deck after what was yet another incredible experience. For young Sergio, well he was a top lad, and I can’t imagine he will have to wait too long for some young lady to respond to his S.O.S.
The Photo Safari
Star Clippers has been operating these vessels since 1989, so they know that guests would love the chance to see the ship with its sails fully unfurled. That opportunity comes through an excursion called the Photo Safari, where you’re taken out to sea in a tender—basically, a little orange taxi boat.
For the next 30 minutes, we circled the ship about 100 yards away, giving us the perfect chance to take photos and admire the Tall Ship in all her glory. As the tour ended, the crew aboard the Star Flyer surprised us by forming a guard of honour on deck. It was a beautiful touch and that extra sprinkling of stardust that makes Star Clippers feel truly special.
Shore Excursions: Discovering Hidden Gems
One of the highlights of any cruise is the opportunity to visit new ports of call and, due to its smaller size, the Star Clippers fleet can visit some amazing places that those larger ships cannot access. Some excursions, require you to board a tender whereas others will moor up at the harbour side. I found the tenders great fun, although they can be a little scary to board at times!
Whilst aboard the Star Flyer I took these four excursions.
The Aeolian Islands
For years, I had longed to visit the seven mysterious Aeolian Islands. As I drifted off to sleep the night before my excursion, I knew that the next morning on deck would be special and I was not wrong.
Hugging my coffee at 6am, we were sailing serenely on the wind on the most glorious of mornings. To my left was the smoking volcanic island of Stromboli, to my right the islands of Filicudi and Alicudi and in front was Panarea, Vulcano, Salina and Lipari. Behind, cradling the entire archipelago like a protective mother, was the island of Sicily.
At 10am, after a short 5 minute tender, we docked at the gorgeous little harbour on Lipari and were met by a guide who took us on a brief walking tour of Lipari Town which was a treasure trove of charming streets lined with quirky boutiques, cosy cafes, and vibrant restaurants. One of the fascinating things we learned about was Obsidian, the volcanic glass that the Aeolians have used for centuries to create intricate jewellery and ornamental pieces.
Following the walking tour, we boarded a coach, and proceeded across the island through unspoilt countryside, covered in wildflowers and cactus and all backed by azure, blue waters. The first stop was at Pasticceria Marisa, where the lovely Marisa welcomed us with open arms. We tasted the island’s signature Malvasia wine, paired with an array of mouthwatering sweet and savoury treats that reflected the island’s rich culinary heritage. After this we stopped at a couple of panoramic viewpoints where we could marvel at this quite stunning archipelago before returning to Lipari town for more free time to explore.
Later that evening, as we departed Lipari, we set sail towards Sicily, our journey taking us past Stromboli, which had been smoking gently all day. As night fell, we gathered on deck, camera and phones in hand, ready to witness every 15 minutes, Stromboli erupting in a stunning display of molten lava and fiery sparks. It was a breathtaking end to an unforgettable day that will stay with me forever and one that I will be talking about for years. Lipari exceeded all my expectations.
Sicily and Mount Etna
Many years ago I had visited Sicily, so I was very much looking forward to an excursion to the town of Taormina and Mount Etna. On this occasion, we didn’t need a tender, as we docked directly at the bustling port of Messina. As we disembarked, an enormous cruise ship carrying a staggering 6,500 passengers pulled in behind us which really put into perspective the striking contrast between our little Tall Ship and these enormous cruise liners.
From Messina we took a coach to Taormina, for a tour to the main square, the Piazza IX Aprile, with views down to the beach far below called Taormina Mare. The main street in Taormina is the Corso Umberto, which intersects with quirky little steep sided streets. Meandering your way along this street day or night is a joy as you discover its many classy boutiques or dine at the many sensational restaurants or cafes.
After a trip to the 3rd century Greek Amphitheatre, it was back on the coach for a drive to the Northeast face of Mount Etna, the highest volcano in Europe. Set in gorgeous countryside on the fertile slopes of Etna, we took lunch at the Gambino Estate. Throughout the fabulous meal we were invited to try the delicious wines that are produced on site. Until 1968 Sicilian wine was exported to France and Spain to mix with other wines but in recent years Sicily, and in particular Etna has seen, dare I say it, an “explosion” in wine sales.
These showpiece coastal Italian treasures will always draw the attention of cruise companies both large and small and whilst I enjoyed Sicily, the experience was somewhat tainted by the mass tourism that descended on Taormina for this day.
The Amalfi Coast
Dropping anchor in a Tall Ship off the beautiful Amalfi Coast was the stuff of dreams. This stunning stretch of coastline in southern Italy is famous for its picturesque villages like Positano, Amalfi and Ravello and for its dramatic cliffs, and azure waters.
I opted to take an afternoon excursion to Ravello. Sadly, however the weather was miserable and where we should have enjoyed some iconic views of the Gulf of Salerno these were somewhat spoiled by low lying cloud and rain.
However, a merry band of Tall ship adventurers were not put off and were soon skipping along one of the main streets passing several high-end boutiques before arriving at the main square and the 11th century Duomo di Ravello. From here we visited the Villa Ruffolo and its beautiful gardens where Richard Wagner took inspiration for his opera “Parisifal”.
The weather continued to dampen our experience of what was without doubt, a spectacular town. Sadly there was no alternative but to dive into the nearest bar and shelter from the rain.
The Amalfi Coast and Ravello left me wanting more especially blue skies and sunshine.
Sorrento and Limoncello
It was my last day on the Star Flyer and just like every day I started the day early. There are two little noticeboards outside the library that are home to daily updates on the ships position and routing. There are nautical coordinates, maps and lots of nerdy sailing information. I often stood there pretending to know what I was looking at – I didn’t have a clue, so when I got on deck, I asked the Captain with no hat – our Captain knew everything!
He told me that to my left was the striking island of Capri, in front of me in the distance was Naples, to the right of Naples was Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii and just around the corner was Sorrento! Every one of those places I have longed to visit in my life, so just to see them from afar excited me.
Before flying home later that day I had the chance to visit Sorrento. I jumped on the tender to Sorrento at 9:30am that was running every 30 minutes and enjoyed a whistlestop, self-guided tour without a map, a hat, or in fact any idea where I was going, returning in time for a 12:00 departure! In other words, I needed to leg it around Sorrento!
Arriving at a rather congested Sorrento harbour I took a local bus waiting in the harbour up to the main square. It was hot, muggy, overcast and busy. I followed the crowds and a few guides with their flags in the air as I guessed they were all heading to points of interest. This took me past the Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie Church and then down the main shopping route where every other shop sold lemons, lemon souvenirs or basically anything you can imagine with a lemon on it. I was very much in Limoncello country!
Returning to the ship from Sorrento, I was back on the Star Flyer for the last few moments of one of the most incredible trips of my life before one last tender, a transfer to Naples Airport and an Easyjet flight home.
Till Next Time
As I reflect on the incredible experiences that filled my week I do so with a immense feeling of gratitude. Tall ship sailing is an adventure, a connection to history, and a reminder that the world is full of wonders waiting to be discovered. The thrill of the open sea, the warmth of the crew, and the bonds forged with fellow passengers made this journey unforgettable.
I loved every minute and would recommend anyone to give Star Clippers and Tall Ship sailing a try – you will not be disappointed.
Contact Information – Star Clippers
For more information on Star Clippers and their fabulous choice of itineraries that are on sale now for 2025 and 2026 please visit the Star Clippers website, call 01473 242666 or download their latest brochures. Be sure to check out their pre and post stay options and if you need more information then you can also contact your local travel agent.
Have you ever sailed on a tall ship? What’s your dream sailing destination? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!
