A Bucket List Trip to the Edge of the Arctic
If you have ever dreamt of seeing the Northern Lights dancing across the night sky, then look no further than the Lapland travel specialists Transun Travel.
It had been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, so when I recently received a last-minute opportunity to join a 4-night Arctic adventure called the “Snowmobile Voyager” I simply could not slip into my thermals quickly enough.
This trip was to Kilpisjärvi, a village bordering the Lapland regions of both Finland and Sweden in the far north of Europe. This trip included the chance, if Mother Nature was playing ball, to see those magical Northern Lights.
Prior to travel, I had so many questions and in this blog I will try to answer many of yours. By the time I was closing my front door and heading to the airport I had rather resigned myself to the fact that this was going to be a trip like no other so… bring on the adventure!
Flying to the Arctic: The Journey Begins
Flights with Transun Holidays operate from a wide range of UK regional airports, making the Arctic surprisingly accessible. I departed from Bournemouth on a Boeing 737-800 operated by Enter Air, heading to Enontekiö Airport, also known as the Arctic Airport, in northern Finland.
First of all, to my absolute delight, there were no kids – this was over-18s only, which I have to say is the future. Well, it isn’t really, but I can dream! Those travelling with me were, I would say, either middle-aged couples or young adults in search of thrills and spills. There were no Burberry baseball caps, no cut-off vests (well there wouldn’t be would there), no mobiles on loudspeaker – these folk were explorers and I was mighty excited to be in their company.
Whilst you cannot pre-book your flight seats, there is excellent legroom and a reasonable onboard menu payable only by card. Sandwiches were from £4.50, coffee from £2.50, and wine from £6.00. I must give a special shout-out to the attractive stewardess who recommended the Bison Grass Vodka with Apple Juice – a snip at £8.50 and the perfect and rather apt start for my trip into the unknown.
The flight takes around three and a half hours, and as you head further north, the landscape begins to transform. What starts as familiar European terrain gradually gives way to vast expanses of snow, frozen lakes and scattered settlements that look as though they have been dusted with icing sugar.
At one point, looking out across this untouched wilderness, it really hits you that you are heading somewhere truly remote. After what was a more than pleasant flight and, as we descended into Finland, our captain, with what I can only imagine was a wry smile, confirmed that we were about to experience temperatures on the ground of minus 25 degrees.
Arrival in Lapland: Enontekiö Airport
Enontekiö Airport is about as far removed from a major international hub as you can imagine. Small, functional, and refreshingly simple, it is your first real introduction to life in the Arctic.
I had been tipped off that sometimes on arrival, and before entering the airport, you may have to queue outside for a brief amount of time. So, as a little tip, make sure your onboard attire is for the Arctic and, well it’s not that cut-off vest – I told you it was not appropriate!
As you pass through passport control where security officials ask for your accommodation name and then take a mugshot and fingerprints, the baggage handling crew will have transferred your luggage into an outdoor shelter from which you will need to collect your bag.
This luggage reclaim can be a bit of a stampede. Lord only knows why. It’s not as if there are multiple flights arriving at once. We were pretty much the only flight of the day. I suggest you just stand back and let those impatient middle-aged adventurers jostle and push – there should be no rush hour on the edge of the Arctic Circle.
Outside, you are met by the team from Transun Holidays and guided to your transfer. The cold hits you immediately, but I also found it strangely invigorating.
Transfers and Getting Arctic Ready
The journey to Kilpisjärvi is in two parts. After 50 minutes, there is the important stop at the equipment centre appropriately called “Suits and Boots”. Here you will collect your bodysuit and boots for the entire duration of your stay. This is not the moment to rush. Getting the right fit is essential, as you will wear this, aside from in bed, pretty much throughout your trip.
I found the suits very comfortable and those that had the inside braces which you could adjust are recommended as they stopped the suit from dropping to the floor when unzipped. A handy yet simple safety mechanism especially when in the warm restaurant and queuing for your eggs at breakfast!
Once you are fully fitted out, there is also a welcome chance to warm up with hot glögi, a spicy mulled fruit drink and a biscuit before continuing the journey deeper into the Arctic wilderness.
Your next and final stop and 90 minutes away is Kilpisjärvi, a remote border village that straddles both Swedish and Finnish Lapland and your home for the next 4 nights. Kilpis means Village and Järvi means lake.
Accommodation: Staying in a Wau House
Accommodation in Kilpisjärvi is centred around the Tundrea Resort, which provides a choice of accommodation between traditional lodges and the more modern Wau Houses.
All accommodation is on a full board basis and the WiFi is surprisingly good throughout. That said, of all the places in the world this is four days when you just need to try and switch off and enjoy nature at its most wild and raw.
I was staying in a Wau House which is most definitely a “Wow” on arrival. They are conveniently located a 5 – 10 minute walk just up the main road or Arctic Route, from the Tundrea restaurant/reception and meeting point for all activities. Now don’t worry when I say main road – this is not the M1 on a Friday afternoon.
Each Wau House is built over two floors. The ground floor comprises a kitchen equipped with coffee machine, toaster, kettle, fridge, dishwasher, oven and hob. There are also plenty of pots, pans, cutlery, cups and plates. There is also a downstairs toilet and shower, a living area with large sofa bed, a round table and four chairs, TV, sound system, drinks cabinet and egg/swing chair.
Take the narrow spiral staircase up and you have a large double bed, second toilet and bathroom and your own private sauna. The statement feature is the glass roof with views across the village and to the distant Saana mountain. There will also be views of the Northern Lights should they be overhead. There is even a heated element in the glass which you can switch on to clear any snow lying in your view – they have clearly thought of everything!
On arrival I found there was some coffee in a cupboard, possibly kindly left from previous guests but with the minimart just 10 minutes up the road you can easily stock up on all manner of supplies.
The Wau Houses are stunning with my only issues being the somewhat complex lighting and heating system and the front door lock which takes a little getting used to.
Welcome Meeting
After you have had the chance to unpack and grab a bite to eat, there is a short welcome meeting, just 100 yards from the restaurant, in what is known as a Kota, a traditional Sámi shelter. This wooden conical structure with gnarly beams and a fire pit is such a cosy and traditional meeting point. This is True Lapland, just as you imagined it: uncommercial, authentic, and picture-perfect.
Over the next 30 minutes, you will be introduced to the forthcoming itinerary as well as some general housekeeping rules. Do take this opportunity to ask any questions as in the blink of an eye this experience will be over.
This is a great chance to meet some of your group who were all excited yet unsure of exactly what awaited us. With the brief welcome meeting over and after a long day of travelling, you can soon retire for an early night, or if the excitement is too much, as it was for me, then take a walk down to the lake.
Taking an Evening Stroll
With the resort so compact it’s worth taking a little walk to get accustomed to your surroundings. Feeling energised despite the day of travelling, I took a 10-minute stroll down to the lake.
It was here on my very first night that I witnessed the Northern Lights. Seeing them move across the wide expanse of the lake was a moment I will never forget. With the pretty Finnish wooden lodges also providing an amazing setting, I simply mooched around in the snow in awe and total silence.
Make sure you set aside time to explore, as there is far more to discover beyond the wonderful organised excursions. You simply have to step out into the cold and find those moments.
The Arctic Experience: Excursions
Each day brings a new experience, and these excursions are what truly define the trip.
Day One: Snowmobile and Ice Fishing – Start Time 09:15
Ever fancied boring a hole in the Arctic ice to go fishing? Well this is your chance.
We met at the Tundrea reception/restaurant and in groups, boarded a minibus for the 5-minute drive down to the lake. We were met by the excellent staff from Kilpisjärvi Safari. They quickly and efficiently provided us all with an additional coat, mittens, balaclava and helmet. It is important to note that, when riding these snowmobiles, you will be asked for your UK driving licence and to sign a disclaimer should the unthinkable happen and you are involved in an accident.
You are then paired off as it’s strictly two per vehicle and given instructions on operating the snowmobile. Whilst the instructions focus on starting, braking and steering, take note of the button for the heated handlebars and also the windscreen. This may seem small at first, but it acts as a vital deflection from the wind!
What followed was a magical 30-minute journey across frozen tundra and the vast Lake Kilpisjärvi. Driving the snowmobiles is relatively straightforward, although it takes a little time to build confidence, especially when turning and knowing which way to lean. One member of our group leant the wrong way and took a tumble, so accidents do happen, so be on your guard and make sure you have adequate winter sports travel insurance.
We stopped in the middle of the lake, with breathtaking views of Mount Saana, an unforgettable setting to learn the art of ice fishing. After a short demonstration, we cleared a patch of snow to expose the surface of the ice. Using a large corkscrew drill, we bored a hole, then settled onto reindeer skins with a small rod in hand, ready to try our luck.
We sat quietly, watching the sunrise and soaking in the stillness, while our guides served hot glögi in traditional Sámi wooden cups, along with, rather randomly, a doughnut with pink icing – not quite the traditional fare I was expecting.
None of us caught a fish, but that hardly mattered. This experience was never about the catch. It was about the journey, the scenery, the silence, and the rare feeling of sitting on the edge of the Arctic Circle alone with your thoughts.
Day Two: Reindeer Camp – Start Time 14:00
The reindeer excursion is conveniently, just a ten minute walk and 400 metres from the Tundrea Resort Restaurant.
On arrival at the Kilpisjärvi Reindeer, we were greeted by the owner and his brother, who now run the farm. We were immediately given the opportunity to feed the reindeer with a handful of dry, yet tasty lichen which, I was assured, is a particular favourite.
Interestingly, despite being so close to them, we were advised not to stroke the reindeer or bend down in front of them. They have a habit of lifting their heads quickly and, with those antlers, could easily cause injury.
We were then welcomed into a traditional kota, where a fire kept us warm as we learned about the farm, its history, and the importance of reindeer to the local Sámi community.
The highlight of the visit was a short sleigh ride. Six of us climbed into a wooden sleigh each, and were gently pulled around the camp, a simple but memorable experience.
The excursion finished with a further talk and a video which focused on the life cycle of reindeer throughout the year, from their birth in spring through the summer months and the challenges of surviving the Arctic winter.
Northern Lights Snowmobile Safari – Start Time 19:30
Heading out into the darkness on snowmobiles, crossing a frozen lake with only headlights and the night sky above, is an experience in itself.
We were collected by minibus by the team from Kilpissafaris and taken down to the Snowmobile station where we proceeded to get fitted out again in double layers, balaclavas and helmets. Following the now familiar safety briefing, fifteen snowmobiles fired up and roared off into the darkness following a route through tundra and then onto the frozen lake below Mount Saana.
On arrival, we parked up in what seemed like the middle of nowhere, there were a couple of small Kota, one with an open fire to warm you along with the now regular glögi and pink doughnut.
If you are lucky, and we were, the lights come out to play in the most spectacular style showing off not only the green that we were now accustomed to but also reds and oranges and dancing across the night sky.
The trip closes as you are dropped back at the Tundrea restaurant which is open until 11:00 am so, there was a chance to enjoy a beverage after what was a long but incredibly enjoyable day.
Day Three: Three Borders by Snowmobile – Start Time 09:15
The final Transun excursion included in our package was another ride on those incredible snowmobiles, sweeping across the frozen lake and to a point where Finland, Sweden and Norway meet.
After an early alarm, breakfast and a minibus shuttle, we wrapped up our safety briefing from Kilpissafarit. Moments later we were speeding across Lake Kilpisjärvi one last time, and Mother Nature delivered something truly special. Rising above Saana, the moon was setting into a soft pink sky while, on the opposite horizon, the sun began to rise. It was a genuine pinch-me moment, although with mittens and inner gloves on in minus 32 degrees, that would have been difficult!
After about an hour of travel, we arrived at what I can only describe as a giant upside down yellow flowerpot, topped with a stone marked Suomi, Finland. Our guide encouraged us to walk around it so that within ten seconds we had stepped across the borders of Finland, Norway and Sweden. Yet another hot mug of fruit glögi followed, which was very welcome although totally unsuccessful in warming any part of my anatomy.
While the destination itself is relatively simple, the journey across frozen landscapes at sunrise is what makes this experience worthwhile. This was yet another exhilarating trip. Experiencing such beauty alongside such extreme cold, with wind chill on the bikes pushing temperatures beyond minus 40 degrees, is something else entirely.
With the organised excursions now complete and still a good part of the day left in Lapland, it was time to make a decision. Did we invest in a couple of optional excursions which involved learning the art of walking in snowshoes or did we go off piste, quite literally, and plan a self-guided adventure of our own?
A Trip To The Kilpisjärvi Waterfall
With a free afternoon, I very much wanted to take the opportunity to explore, thus savouring every moment of this incredible destination. So, myself and a few other hardy adventurers laced up our boots and took a walk to the village where we had heard rumours of a waterfall.
Now, calling it a village might stretch the imagination for most of us, but that is part of its charm. Just off the main road (the Arctic Route) is a large supermarket, a sports shop, an off-license, a petrol station and a restaurant/coffee bar. Then if you start to explore behind the road and up the hillside, you pass residential houses and also two fabulous hotels both available through Transun – Santa’s Hotel Rakka and the Cahkal Hotel – Kilpisjärvi.
From the Hotel Rakka there is a signpost to Tsahkaljarvenhanke Kilpisjärvi which may not immediately roll off the tongue, but to you and me it’s a project within an area of natural beauty. Follow the snowy trail for about 20 minutes before arriving at a bridge overlooking the waterfall but also the whole of Lake Kilpisjärvi and the majestic Saana Mountain! Just one word of caution, the bridge is for one person at a time.
If you ever find yourself here in Kilpisjärvi, do not stay tucked away in your lodge. Get out and explore. The world is a remarkable place and none more so than here in Lapland. You just have to go looking for its best corners.
When Is the Best Time to See the Northern Lights?
One of the most common questions when planning a trip like this is simple: when is the best time to see the Northern Lights?
The honest answer is that there is no guarantee. The aurora depends on solar activity, cloud cover and a bit of luck. Forecasting beyond a few hours is difficult, and even the experts rely on probability rather than certainty.
That said, January to March is widely considered the best time to visit. The nights are long, the skies are often clearer, and the snow-covered landscape reflects light beautifully, enhancing the overall experience.
A useful tip is to download the “My Aurora Forecast” app. During my visit, it proved surprisingly reliable within a 24-hour window and helped build anticipation ahead of potential sightings.
And when it does happen, it is extraordinary. The sky shifts from stillness to motion, with waves of green, sometimes red and purple, moving silently overhead. It is one of those rare moments in travel that genuinely lives up to expectations.
Food and Atmosphere
All Transun trips are full board, with meals served in a central restaurant that also acts as a social hub. The food is hearty and varied, with buffet options including meats, fish, vegetarian dishes, soups and desserts. I found the restaurant and food throughout the trip excellent.
After a day in extreme cold, returning here to warm up, eat and share stories becomes part of the experience itself. It has that rustic ski chalet feel and it was very much to my liking.
Breakfast offers porridge, bread, croissants and a choice of hot options like scrambled egg and bacon together with coffee and tea. There is also a cold platter of meats and cheese.
For lunch and dinner there is a buffet choice of salads, soup, and four main dishes such as pork, beef, chicken, vegetables, and a vegetarian option. One lunch there was spaghetti carbonara and another dinner there was fresh salmon with new potatoes and broccoli cheese bake. Then there was always one simple dessert like a cream slice or a pastry.
If the buffet was not to your liking then there is an à la carte menu where you can order wraps, pasta while there were burgers from 16 euros.
My “Just One For The Road” was not as extortionate as I had perhaps expected for Scandinavia. A pint was 8.50 euros so UK city prices.
Shopping in The Arctic
Now this may seem a very strange heading, but seriously it’s a question often asked. What can you buy in an Arctic Resort – if anything?
There is just a 5-minute walk from Tundrea Resort to a minimart that sells everything from food to homeware and a wide selection of souvenirs. This is the place to stock up on milk for a morning coffee, bread, butter, jam, cereals or some snacks to get you through the day.
Next door there is a sports shop so if you need an extra fleece or pair of trousers you are covered. Alongside that is an off-license selling wine, beers and spirits so you can easily stock up that Wau fridge if you are planning a party!
Also here is a small restaurant and around the corner the Hotel Rakka or the Hotel Cahkal offers you the chance to stop by and have a more refined cocktail or drink in lovely hotel style surroundings.
There is also a rumour of a pub! I did find it – a red building between Tundrea and the Wau Houses which looks more like a restaurant. The only problem is that it has one of those owners that opens rarely… maybe she takes her lead from the Aurora and only puts on a show when she wants – unlike the Northern Lights I was out of luck.
What to Pack for the Arctic
Thermal base layers are essential. While outerwear is provided, items such as long johns and thermal tops make a significant difference.
Gloves, hats, wool socks and a snood are also highly recommended, along with a head torch for navigating dark evenings.
The provision of your thermal suit and boots means that in reality you will wear far fewer outfits than you expect. Warmth and practicality take priority over everything else.
Are the Northern Lights Worth A Visit?
This is more than just a trip to see the Northern Lights.
It is an opportunity to experience one of the most remote and beautiful parts of the world, to step away from everyday life and immerse yourself in something completely different.
Even if the aurora does not appear, the landscapes, the activities and the atmosphere make this an unforgettable experience.
And if it does, you will witness something truly extraordinary in a place that feels as though it sits at the very edge of the world.
Plan Your Trip
To experience this Arctic adventure for yourself, visit Transun Holidays or speak to your local travel agent.
Transun Holidays
Open Monday to Saturday 09:00 to 17:30
T: 01865 265200
Common Northern Lights Questions
For Northern Finland and Sweden I would suggest visiting between January and March.
Try the authentic resort of Kilpisjarvi where the Northern Lights can be seen across the frozen lake making it a fabulous backdrop.
Yes you can however they are not as clear as you will see in some of my images.
I used an Apple I Phone 14 Pro Max. The secret is to switch it to night mode and then you just need a steady hand to hold the shot or use a tripod.
Thermals long johns and long sleeve t shirts are the most important along with wool socks, and comfortable trousers and hoodies. The thermal suits and boots are generally provided but make sure you check before you leave.
From my experience they are best seen on a cold clear night from about 10pm but of course this can vary subject to your location.
