My first memory of Tokyo goes all the way back to Christmas in the 1970s. As a small boy, I was given a tin wind up robot, packed inside a brightly coloured cardboard box with the words “Made in Tokyo” printed on the back. I would excitedly wind it up, watch it walk across the floor with its lights flashing, and then inevitably watch it fall over. I loved those toys. Such simple days.
Forty five years later, I finally landed in Tokyo, a sprawling, high-rise, high-tech city that felt a world away from that little tin robot. Over the next few days I suspected I would need winding up every morning, walk more miles than I cared to count and, quite possibly, fall over myself. As it turned out, I wasn’t far wrong.
Tokyo is an experience quite unlike anywhere else. It’s bright, loud, exciting, sometimes bewildering and wonderfully different. It’s ordering food without being entirely sure what is going to arrive, navigating enormous railway stations and trying to stay awake for as many hours as possible because there is always something else to see.
I loved it. Tokyo is magnificent, occasionally bizarre and a city that was right up my street.
Arriving in Tokyo
Where on earth do you start with Tokyo? Well, I guess it has to be at one of the city’s two international airports, Narita or Haneda.
After swiftly making my way through an immaculately clean and spacious terminal, I boarded an equally efficient train into the heart of the city. That was the easy bit. Once in central Tokyo, I had to get to grips with the vast network of trains and Metro lines that crisscross the city.
It can seem daunting at first, but once you understand how it all works, getting around Tokyo is surprisingly easy. It’s also a fascinating place to people watch. Travelling on a packed train during the weekday rush hour, I couldn’t believe how quiet it was. Everyone seemed to be on their phones, yet they were switched to silent, hardly anyone was talking and those who were spoke quietly. Coming from the UK, it was quite an eye opener!
I was staying at the wonderful Hotel Gracery in the heart of Shinjuku, complete with a giant Godzilla peering out over the rooftops. I mean, why not?
At various times throughout the day, Godzilla comes to life with flashing lights, smoke and that unmistakable roar. It was one of my first wonderfully bizarre experiences in Tokyo and only made me more excited to get out and discover what else this astonishing city had in store.
Tsukiji Outer Market
An early morning visit to Tsukiji Outer Market is a great way to experience another side of Tokyo. Its narrow lanes are packed with stalls selling fresh seafood, street food and all manner of Japanese ingredients, creating a lively atmosphere from the moment you arrive.
You’ll also find plenty of shops selling everything from Japanese kitchen knives to pots, utensils and other cookware. For me, though, much of the enjoyment came from simply wandering around and watching everyday life unfold.
Locals arrived on bicycles, traders prepared their stalls and small food counters served an incredible variety of seafood. With so much going on around you, Tsukiji is a fascinating place to explore and certainly one to include on a first visit to Tokyo.
One word of warning though. The blowtorched eel I tried was a little on the tough side!
Shinjuku
I was based in Shinjuku, and if you want to experience Tokyo at full throttle, this is certainly the place to do it. Neon lights, busy bars, izakayas, restaurants and seemingly endless entertainment fill the streets, particularly once darkness falls.
By day it’s still wonderfully hectic, but at night Shinjuku really comes alive. This was the Tokyo I had imagined before arriving, bright, energetic, slightly chaotic and with something catching your eye at every turn.
Then there is Shinjuku Station. It’s enormous and, as I quickly discovered, getting your bearings can take a little practice. With numerous lines, platforms, passageways and exits, taking the wrong turn can leave you emerging some distance from where you thought you were going.
I didn’t exactly master it and spent more than a little time wondering whether I would ever see my hotel again!
Shibuya
Shibuya offers yet another side of Tokyo. It’s one of the city’s best known shopping and entertainment districts, packed with shops, restaurants, cafés and nightlife, but for many visitors there is one experience that steals the show.
Just outside Shibuya Station is the famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing, surrounded by towering buildings, huge video screens and flashing neon signs. When the lights change, pedestrians pour into the intersection from every direction before somehow making it safely to the other side.
I’d seen Shibuya Crossing countless times on television before visiting Tokyo, but standing there and watching it for myself was something else. It’s busy, slightly bonkers and one of those unmistakably Tokyo experiences you simply have to see at least once.
Roppongi
Roppongi is another of Tokyo’s lively entertainment districts, particularly after dark when its bars, restaurants and clubs attract a mixture of locals and visitors.
By day, the area has a rather different feel. Roppongi Hills dominates the skyline and is home to shops, restaurants, cultural attractions and the Mori Art Museum.
It’s this contrast that makes Roppongi interesting. Contemporary art and modern architecture by day, followed by bright lights and a very different energy once night falls.
Ginza
For a more polished side of Tokyo, head to Ginza, one of the city’s most famous shopping districts. This is where you’ll find luxury hotels, smart restaurants, enormous department stores and flagship boutiques from some of the world’s best known brands.
It’s certainly a contrast to the bright lights and late night energy of Shinjuku. Even if designer shopping isn’t your thing, Ginza is worth exploring simply to experience another side of Tokyo.
Asakusa
For something more traditional, Asakusa offers a completely different atmosphere. It’s a little more laid back than some of Tokyo’s busier districts, with local shops, restaurants and streets that are great for simply wandering around.
At the heart of Asakusa is Sensoji, Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple and one of the city’s most famous landmarks. The approach to the temple takes you along Nakamise, a lively shopping street lined with stalls selling snacks, souvenirs and traditional Japanese goods.
This was another side of Tokyo that I really enjoyed. Away from the skyscrapers and neon lights, Asakusa gives you a glimpse of the city’s history and traditions and is a fascinating contrast to modern Tokyo.
Omoide Yokocho
Close to Shinjuku Station you’ll find Omoide Yokocho, a maze of narrow alleyways whose name translates as Memory Lane. The area dates back to the years following the Second World War, when it developed from an informal market into the atmospheric collection of tiny bars and eateries you see today.
Packed into the narrow lanes are dozens of tiny restaurants and yakitori stalls where diners squeeze around counters while skewers of meat are grilled right in front of them.
This is where the menu became rather interesting.
Alongside the more familiar choices were several items aimed at the slightly more adventurous diner, including grilled rectum. I decided there are some cultural experiences that can safely remain unexplored.
Many of the locals were still suited up after finishing work, squeezing into these tiny establishments for a few beers and something from the grill. Everyone was friendly and welcoming, although I remained unconvinced by some of their menu choices!
For atmosphere and a taste of a very different side of Tokyo, Omoide Yokocho was one of my favourite experiences in the city.
The Japanese People
In the months and years since my trip to Tokyo, whenever anyone has asked me what I remember most about Japan, my thoughts often turn to the people I met along the way.
Throughout my time in Tokyo, I found people incredibly welcoming, friendly and respectful. Whether I was trying to find my way around a station, ordering something I didn’t entirely recognise from a menu or simply observing everyday life around the city, there was a politeness and consideration that really stayed with me.
Tokyo may be remembered for its neon lights, skyscrapers, temples and wonderfully unusual experiences, but for me, the warmth of the people was just as memorable.
Planning Your Visit to Tokyo
Tokyo is enormous, and on a first visit it can feel a little overwhelming. My advice is not to try to see everything. Choose a few areas each day, allow yourself time to explore and accept that getting slightly lost is all part of the experience. I certainly did!
Getting Around Tokyo
Tokyo’s trains and Metro are by far the easiest way to get around the city. The network looks complicated at first, but after a few journeys it starts to make much more sense.
Stations such as Shinjuku can be enormous, so always check which exit you need before leaving the station. Take it from someone who didn’t!
Where To Stay In Tokyo
I stayed in Shinjuku, which proved to be a great base for exploring the city. There are excellent transport connections, countless places to eat and drink and plenty going on from morning until late at night.
I stayed at the Hotel Gracery Shinjuku, famous for the enormous Godzilla looking out across the rooftops. If you enjoy being right in the middle of the action, Shinjuku is certainly worth considering.
How Long Do You Need In Tokyo
I’d allow at least three or four full days for a first visit to Tokyo. That gives you enough time to explore several different neighbourhoods without spending the entire trip racing from one attraction to another.
If you have longer, even better. Tokyo is one of those cities where simply wandering around and seeing what you stumble across can be every bit as enjoyable as visiting the famous sights.
Arigato Tokyo
Tokyo was everything I hoped it would be and quite a lot that I wasn’t expecting. I loved the energy, the bright lights, the madness and even the seemingly non stop noise. Around every corner there appeared to be something new, unusual or completely unexpected.
It was also a city of contrasts. One minute I was surrounded by neon lights and skyscrapers, the next wandering around an ancient temple or squeezing into a tiny restaurant down a narrow alleyway.
Most of all, Tokyo fulfilled a childhood dream that had begun more than forty five years earlier with that little tin robot and the words “Made in Tokyo” printed on the back of the box.
I finally made it there, walked for miles and, just as predicted, needed winding up again every morning.
Arigato Tokyo. I loved you.
Although I’m still not convinced about those blowtorched eels!
Pre-bookable Tokyo Excursions
If you’re planning a trip to Tokyo and would like to arrange some of your sightseeing before you arrive, there are plenty of tours, day trips and experiences available to book in advance.
I’ve selected three popular options below that offer different ways to experience Tokyo and the surrounding area.
Planning a Trip to Japan
Tokyo was just one part of my journey around Japan, and if you’re planning to explore more of the country, you’ll find plenty more first hand experiences and travel inspiration here on Just One For The Road.
Start with my Japan Travel Guide where you can discover more of the places I visited and start planning your own journey.
You can also read about my travels through Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Hiroshima, Yokohama, Fukuoka and Fujikawaguchiko.
For official visitor information, travel advice and help planning your trip, visit the Japan National Tourism Organization.
